Monthly Archives: March 2010

A Korean-Japanese couple has created two heavenly restaurants that are intimate and special

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Chiyo
3800 W. Lawrence Ave., Chicago
(773) 267-1555
www.chiyorestaurant.com
Hours: 4-11 p.m., Tues.-Sat.; 4-10 p.m., Sun. Closed on Mondays.

Chicago Kalbi
3752 W. Lawrence Ave., Chicago
(773) 604-8183
www.chicago-kalbi.com
Hours: 5 p.m.-midnight, Mon. and Wed.-Sun. Closed on Tuesdays.

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise Magazine

Her name is Chiyo. She was born in Korea but raised in Japan. Her husband, Iso, is Japanese and a chef. With their two restaurants, a half a block from each other on West Lawrence, Chicagoans have discovered what is often difficult to find: an authentically Japanese food experience, and a spot for Asian BBQ that is lighter and more delicious than most. The food is prepared with a loving touch and the restaurants are handsome, intimate and offer superb service. Quality and service are the hallmarks here.

We first became acquainted with Chiyo (the person as well as her namesake restaurant) when our close friends invited us to try a “special” Japanese eatery. Since we love sushi, it was a no-brainer. What we didn’t expect was the warm décor and the cordial attention we received. When we opened the menu—which features far more than sushi, we were amazed at the unique items we had never eaten before.

Chiyo offers a more authentic Japanese food experience than most Chicago restaurants. People visiting Chicago from Japan seek out the restaurant, and food lovers marvel at the unique tastes and textures. From freshly prepared sushi and sashimi to the hot dishes cooked at the table, Chiyo offers a wide choice, making it a very festive dining experience.

The Ippin Ryori, Japanese style tapas, are starters featuring ingredients and tasty flavor combinations you may not have had before. Paired with a bottle of cold sake, they are an adventure unto themselves. Among our favorites are Kanisu (crab meat with cucumbers in vinegar), Ankimo (monkfish liver with ponzu sauce) and the amazing Spicy Seafood Salad.

The house specialties are the hot meals cooked at the table. Shabu Shabu features thin slices of beef cooked in boiling water and dipped in either a sesame or ponzu citrus dipping sauce. Sukiyaki is a beef and vegetable dish in which very thinly sliced beef is simmered with various vegetables and a sweetened, flavored soy sauce. Yose-Nabe is a somewhat lighter dish featuring seafood, chicken, and assorted vegetables cooked in broth together in a hot pot and served with ponzu sauce. All three dishes can be ordered with regular beef or Kobe beef and both choices are good. If you’re in a splurging mood, go for the Kobe.

If you’re in the mood for sushi, Chiyo serves a wide assortment, including most of the standards you’ve come to enjoy at other sushi restaurants. The sushi is fresh and nicely presented without being pretentious.

The hot entrees are also gloriously prepared. You can pick from a number of teriyaki, tempura and sautéed dishes. The servers will help you choose the type of sauces and spiciness that most please your palate.
Dessert is not typically a Japanese specialty but, joyfully, Chiyo is unique: the desserts are very creative and definitely worth saving room for.

Chicago Kalbi is an excellent choice for Yakiniku, the Japanese version of Korean BBQ, particularly if you would like to eat a lighter (but still delicious) version than is found in many authentically Korean restaurants. Chiyo (the owner) is delightfully straightforward about the Japanese influence of the restaurant. She told us that the food is less heavy and less greasy and diners can take advantage of the many Japanese side dishes that go perfectly with the barbecue.

We recommend that you start your meal with some shared appetizers, which are made to order. We love the Pajun, featuring an assortment of squid, beef and green onions battered with a crepe and grilled to form a pancake. If you’re an oyster lover, the delicious Guljun is a similar pancake creation with oysters. Another delight is the Yakimandu, twice cooked dumplings with beef and vegetables. If you’re a tartare fan, you’ll enjoy Yuk-Hwe, a Japanese style tartare made from raw seasoned beef tenderloin with a raw egg yolk.

Asian BBQ refers to the tender, thin slices of marinated meat that guests prepare on a wood grill right at the table. You can choose a variety of meats: Kalbi (short ribs), Bulgogi (beef ribeye), Oeji-Gui (sliced pork), Saewoo-Gui (shrimp) and Ojinguh-Gui (squid) and just some of the choices. You can order Kobe beef and prime ribeye if you prefer.

Chicago Kalbi also offers a wide range of Korean noodle dishes and sautéed entrées, which are worth a try if you’re not in the mood for the BBQ. The creamy green tea ice cream is a refreshing finish to your meal.
And here’s a tip: when you sit down at either Chiyo or Chicago Kalbi, ask what’s on the “special” menu. That’s what the insiders do. You’ll discover a new world of authentic dishes that your server will gladly walk you through. Enjoy the journey.

DineWise is a weekly column appearing in StreetWise magazine. Lee Barrie is on the StreetWise board of directors and he and his wife Cindy own Kurman Communications, a Chicago-based public relations agency specializing in lifestyle, restaurant and hospitality strategic branding, marketing promotions, media relations and social networking. If you’d like your restaurant to be featured on the DineWise blog and in StreetWise magazine, please contact dinewise@kurman.com. You can follow DineWise on Twitter @Dinewise and follow us @kurmanstaff

Pannenkoeken Café: one delicious way to enjoy breakfast

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Pannenkoeken Cafe
Lincoln Square
4757 N. Western Ave.
Chicago, IL 60625
773-769-8800

Bucktown/Wicker Park
2257 W. North Ave.
Chicago, IL 60647
773-227-6600

Hours:
Lincoln Square: 7 a.m.-2 p.m., Mon., Wed., Thurs., Fri.;
8 a.m.-2 p.m., Sat.-Sun. Closed Tuesday.

Bucktown/Wicker Park: 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.;
7 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri.; 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat.; 8 a.m.-7 p.m., Sun.

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Original story appeared in StreetWise
 One of Chicago’s hottest spots for breakfast these days takes you on a journey to Holland. The Dutch rendition of the pancake, which the Dutch call Pannenkoeken (pronounced pa-ne-co-ken), is the specialty of the house. There are two locations of this bright and popular eatery. The original location in Lincoln Square is a tiny and busy 20-seater. With bright colors, comfortable banquettes and butcher block tables, the atmosphere is basic but homey. The Bucktown/Wicker Park location is much bigger, but so are the crowds. On weekends, you may need to wait for a table, but it’s worth it. Be prepared to give them your name and party size and, if you go off to window shop for awhile, make sure to come back in due time. To shorten our wait, we shared a four-top table with two very friendly women who have lived in Holland and could speak to the authenticity of this restaurant.

So what is a Pannenkoeken, besides a difficult to pronounce word? This delicious Dutch rendition of the pancake is a large, plate-sized thin pancake that’s like a crêpe but thicker. It’s also like a German pancake, but since it’s not baked, it doesn’t puff up like the German dish. It also has some griddle marks that remind us of Indian Naan bread. Our new tablemates told us that they remember the ones in Holland being slightly thicker, but I don’t think we should quibble. They loved these.

Whichever way you describe it, the Pannenkoeken comes out piping hot (servers deliver them fresh from the kitchen) and the toppings are delicious. Depending on how hungry you are, you can share one between two people, although it’s tempting to wolf down the whole thing, because the Pannenkoeken are that good.

The best part of the Pannenkoeken Café story is the variety of delicious flavor combinations on the menu. If you’re in the mood to satisfy your sweet tooth (although none are cloyingly sweet, you’ll enjoy the Apple, with thinly sliced apples, cinnamon, toasted hazelnuts, topped with fresh whipped cream and lightly dusted with powdered sugar. Another sweet inspiration is the Apple & Ginger, with sliced apples and ginger marmalade, sprinkled with powdered sugar. The Raisin & Ginger pairs golden raisins with ginger marmalade, sprinkled with powdered sugar. The Apple, Raisin, & Cheese Pannenkoeken combines golden raisins with sliced apples and melted havarti cheese. The piece de resistance on the sweet side is the Chocolate Banana, cooked with thinly sliced bananas, drizzled with Belgium chocolate, sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts, and topped off with fresh whipped cream and Dutch cocoa powder.

On the savory side, you can choose meat-oriented varieties or the Veggie Pannenkoeken, topped with choice of three sautéed veggies (asparagus, broccoli, mushroom, spinach, tomato, onion, green pepper, or red pepper) and choice of cheese. Meat-oriented choices include the Bacon & Cheese, with bacon and havarti cheese; Bacon, Cheese & Mushroom; Ham, Pineapple & Cheese, featuring grilled ham and pineapple, covered with havarti cheese; Sausage & Cheese; Sausage, Mushroom & Cheese, or the Salami & Cheese with grilled salami and havarti cheese.

If you’re in a DIY mood, you can add additional toppings from the ingredients listed above.

Lest you think all there is at Pannenkoeken Café are the pancakes, we should run down some of the other choices on the varied menu. Omelets are served with a hefty portion of delicious hash browns and toast. You can order a Denver Omelet, a Veggie Omelet or the Build Your Own, with an ample variety of ingredients. Options include egg whites, croissants and cheeses.

If you’re in a traditional pancake or French Toast mood, you will be quite pleased. Buttermilk pancakes are available plain or made with strawberries or blueberries. The Belgian Waffle and French Toast are thick and decadent.

They haven’t forgotten the kids—there is a special kids menu and freshly squeezed orange juice, hot chocolate and chocolate milk are beverage choices. For grownups, drip coffee as well as espresso and cappuccino are available. Note that the Bucktown/Wicker Park location is open for extended evening hours. Be sure to check out daily specials if you’re in that restaurant from 2 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Note: DineWise is a weekly column appearing in StreetWise magazine. Lee Barrie is on the StreetWise board of directors and he and his wife Cindy own Kurman Communications, a Chicago-based public relations agency specializing in lifestyle, restaurant and hospitality strategic branding, marketing promotions, media relations and social networking. If you’d like your restaurant to be featured on the DineWise blog and in StreetWise magazine, please contact DineWise@kurman.com.

90 Miles Cuban Café: It’s like going home to your Cuban neighborhood

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90 Miles Cuban Café
3101 N. Clybourn, Chicago
(773) 248-2822; www.90milescubancafe.com
Hours: 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat.; 9 a.m.- 6 p.m., Sun.
or
2540 W. Armitage
Chicago, IL 60618
773-227-2822; www.90milescubancafe.com
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon.-Sat.; 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun.

Prices: sandwiches, $4.25-$6.50; entrees, $8.95-$9.95; sides, $1.50-$3.00

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise Magazine

We don’t know how many times we had driven by 90 Miles Cuban Café on Clybourn before we decided to stop in. From the outside it looked like a simple, standalone makeshift sandwich shop that was hardly worth a second look except for the fact that it was so unusual looking. So when we walked in, the magical décor, featuring myriads of newspaper and magazine layouts from pre-Castro Havana pasted on the walls to form a three walled, room sized collage, took us quite by surprise. Our smiles went from ear to ear.

The other surprise was the culinary-oriented, professional staff, including chef-owners Alberto and Christine Gonzalez, who have an obvious passion for what they are doing. In addition to the sandwich board covering both breakfast and lunch/dinner items, there is a second chalkboard featuring daily entrée specials that are much more inspiration than improvisation, which is a good thing. What is most apparent is that this surprising eatery has an obviously loyal following—there isn’t much seating but this place does a great take-out business.

We also learned that the owners had opened up shop in Wicker Park with a second, larger location. So take your choice. When you’re in the mood for casual Cuban homespun fare at breakfast, lunch or dinnertime, this is a restaurant to try.

If you’re up early, a Cuban breakfast sandwich makes a fine choice. Choose from an omelet sandwich with onion, onion and ham, ham and Swiss cheese or an omelet with maduro (sweet plaintain). Enjoy it with a strong Café Cubano or a Café Con Leche (with milk).

Lunchtime is grilled sandwich time, and there are many to choose from. We tried the Cubano, made with Cuban ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard. Good and authentic. We also liked the Media Noche, a variation made with midnight ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard on sweet bread. Other sandwich choices include the Bistec, steak with Romaine lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, shoestring potatoes and a chimicurri; Pollo, chicken with Romaine lettuce, tomato and grilled onions; Lechon, roast pork with Romaine lettuce, grilled onions and sweet plantains. The Frita Cubana is a Cuban version of the hamburger and the Guajirito comes with your choice of meat or tofu, green plantains; the Croqueta features ham, grilled onions and Swiss cheese.

Regular entrées are served with white rice, black beans and sweet plantains. Choose from Bistec (steak), Pollo (chicken), Lechon (roast pork), Ropa Vieja (shredded beef), Tofu or a Veggie. Every day, there are entrée specials, which give you an authentic taste of some Cuban specialties.

The side orders do a great job of giving you a sampling of some foods that are common Cuban street fare. There are several flavors of empanadas: beef, ground soy, veggie, chorizo, goat cheese or guava and cheese. You might try the Yuca con mojo (cassava in garlic sauce, the Yuca frita (fried cassava) or the Yuca Rellena (stuffed cassava). If you’re a plantain lover, you can choose Maduros (sweet plantains) or Tostones (green plaintains). A nice side dish with a sandwich is the Mariquitas (plantain chips).

If you’ve got room for some dessert, the Pastelitos are delicious—choose between guava or guava and cream cheese. The bread pudding is rich and filling and, on the lighter side, there’s a yummy traditional flan. To round things out, there are some cold Cuban soft drinks and tropical shakes, which we haven’t tried but will likely be a refreshing treat when the Chicago weather warms up.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. For more information, please call (312) 651-9000 or stay in the know by visiting their blog at http://www.gotbuzzatkurman.com. You can also follow us on Twitter @dinewise and @kurmanstaff

The new Prairie Fire brings excellence, warmth and comfort to casual Fulton River District dining

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by Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Original story appeared in StreetWise

Prairie Fire
215 N. Clinton, Chicago
(312) 382-8300; http://www.prairiefirechicago.com/

Hours:
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. Sat.-Sun.
Entrée prices:
$9-$23 (lunch); $13-$27 (dinner); $39 for the Tallgrass Beef Filet Mignon

When veteran 4-star chefs Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris left the Ritz-Carlton in 2004 to open the casual Prairie Grass Café in Northbrook, their foray into everyday dining, with a sustainable/organic emphasis, was an instant hit. Now they’ve expanded their empire from one to two with the recent opening of Prairie Fire in the Fulton River District, just across the Chicago River from the Merchandise Mart (Clinton is one block west of Canal St.). We’re very happy—the food is wonderful, the room is beautiful and comfortable, and it’s just a two-block walk from our office.

Even if you’re trip is a bit longer than ours, you will be very pleased with the experience (and valet parking makes it convenient). The restaurant, open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, offers a wide selection of contemporary American creations, crafted with a master’s touch yet simply presented and perfectly appropriate when you’re in a casual mood. The menu is similar to that of Prairie Grass Café, and their signature wide screen TVs, showing scenic video footage from Bill Kurtis’ Kansas ranch, are in full display.




Speaking of Bill Kurtis, the menu features his delicious and healthful Tallgrass Beef that he and a network of beef suppliers raise on their prairie grass ranches, following Kurtis’ exacting standards. But beyond the beef dishes, the menu offers many choices that will please fish and poultry lovers as well as vegetarians.

The lunch menu features a delicious assortment of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, burgers, entrées and desserts. There is some overlap on the dinner menu, but the evening selections focus more on the inspired entrées. We’ve eaten lunch and dinner at Prairie Fire, so here is our first take.

The appetizers are wide-ranging and one could easily create a meal from a combination of them. Among the intriguing choices are Baked Feta Cheese with slices of spicy banana peppers and tomatoes; Duck Ballotine Pate with cornichons, whole grain mustard and Cognac marinated prunes; Nueske’s Bacon Pizza with Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese; Tender Braised Mint Creek Farm lamb with cucumber, mint and yogurt sauce; French Lentils slow cooked with tomato marmalade, crumbled Capriole Farm goat cheese and crispy shallots. Do justice to the apps and share them with your tablemates; this is no time to be stingy.

Salads are creative and very tasty, with sublime flavor combinations derived from primarily organic ingredients. The dinnertime Farmer’s Salad, with Green Sister’s Garden greens, chopped Romaine, roasted root vegetables, pomegranate, pumpkin seeds, Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese and herb dressing, is excellently conceived, large but not huge. The Citrus Honey Marinated Beets, with sliced pears, Capriole Farm goat cheese and toasted hazelnuts, are fresh, crisp and enchanting. The “Chicago Magazine’s #1 Sirloin Burger,” served at lunch and dinner, is made from Tallgrass Beef, topped with mild Amish Blue Cheese and served with a roasted beefsteak tomato slice and homemade potato wedges. Good call, Chicago Magazine. We loved it—it’s rich and satisfying and the cheese topping has the most wonderful texture.

The flavorful “Tallgrass Beef” Penne Pasta, with basil and a crispy bread crumb topping, was is a perfectly prepared lunchtime dish. It’s hearty and zesty without being over-spiced. We also enjoyed the dinnertime Sautéed Lake Superior Whitefish, served with delicious roasted Portobello mushrooms and creamy mashed Yukon Gold potatoes.

Another wonderful dish is the Tallgrass Beef Slow Braised BBQ Brisket, served as a sandwich at lunch (served on Ciabatta with French fries) and as an entrée at dinner with a Yukon Gold potato purée and mirepoix (butter-sautéed vegetables). The brisket is nicely seasoned and subtle enough to avoid the heavy smoky flavor that often characterizes barbecued brisket. It’s a homemade, wholesome experience.

Here are some other choices that may interest you: Mint Creek Farms Handcrafted Lamb Sausage with giant Greek-style beans—Chef George is a sausage master and his lamb sausage, which we’ve had at Prairie Grass Café, is a work of art. The Moussaka, with braised lamb, potato, eggplant and Bechamel sauce, is a treasure of texture and flavor. The Boneless Half Chicken, with rosemary, thyme and garlic, pan seared until crispy, with roasted honey-glazed sweet potatoes, is a showcase for their mastery of rustic fare.

At Prairie Fire, the excellent desserts are a perfect end to a comforting meal. The homemade pies change often, according to the season. The Double Chocolate Cake is done right: moist, rich with a well-balanced chocolate flavor. The Thin Apple Tart with Crème Anglaise is light, fruity and refreshing. We predict that the Warm Sticky Toffee Date Cake—moist and rich but not cloyingly sweet—will become one of their most popular signature desserts. It’s different in a very good way.

Prairie Fire is a superb addition to the burgeoning Fulton River District. It will be welcomed by the growing residential community, but it’s also a great destination restaurant that’s surprisingly close to the Loop and River North. Spring for the taxi fare and have a great time among very appreciative hosts.

While you’re in the neighborhood, walk south two blocks and stop in at the fabulous new Chicago French Market. There you can purchase the Tallgrass Beef to prepare at home.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at http://www.gotbuzzatkurman.com/