90 Miles Cuban Café
3101 N. Clybourn, Chicago
(773) 248-2822; www.90milescubancafe.com
Hours: 8 a.m.-8 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri.-Sat.; 9 a.m.- 6 p.m., Sun.
or
2540 W. Armitage
Chicago, IL 60618
773-227-2822; www.90milescubancafe.com
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon.-Sat.; 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Sun.
Prices: sandwiches, $4.25-$6.50; entrees, $8.95-$9.95; sides, $1.50-$3.00
By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise Magazine
We don’t know how many times we had driven by 90 Miles Cuban Café on Clybourn before we decided to stop in. From the outside it looked like a simple, standalone makeshift sandwich shop that was hardly worth a second look except for the fact that it was so unusual looking. So when we walked in, the magical décor, featuring myriads of newspaper and magazine layouts from pre-Castro Havana pasted on the walls to form a three walled, room sized collage, took us quite by surprise. Our smiles went from ear to ear.
The other surprise was the culinary-oriented, professional staff, including chef-owners Alberto and Christine Gonzalez, who have an obvious passion for what they are doing. In addition to the sandwich board covering both breakfast and lunch/dinner items, there is a second chalkboard featuring daily entrée specials that are much more inspiration than improvisation, which is a good thing. What is most apparent is that this surprising eatery has an obviously loyal following—there isn’t much seating but this place does a great take-out business.
We also learned that the owners had opened up shop in Wicker Park with a second, larger location. So take your choice. When you’re in the mood for casual Cuban homespun fare at breakfast, lunch or dinnertime, this is a restaurant to try.
If you’re up early, a Cuban breakfast sandwich makes a fine choice. Choose from an omelet sandwich with onion, onion and ham, ham and Swiss cheese or an omelet with maduro (sweet plaintain). Enjoy it with a strong Café Cubano or a Café Con Leche (with milk).
Lunchtime is grilled sandwich time, and there are many to choose from. We tried the Cubano, made with Cuban ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard. Good and authentic. We also liked the Media Noche, a variation made with midnight ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard on sweet bread. Other sandwich choices include the Bistec, steak with Romaine lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, shoestring potatoes and a chimicurri; Pollo, chicken with Romaine lettuce, tomato and grilled onions; Lechon, roast pork with Romaine lettuce, grilled onions and sweet plantains. The Frita Cubana is a Cuban version of the hamburger and the Guajirito comes with your choice of meat or tofu, green plantains; the Croqueta features ham, grilled onions and Swiss cheese.
Regular entrées are served with white rice, black beans and sweet plantains. Choose from Bistec (steak), Pollo (chicken), Lechon (roast pork), Ropa Vieja (shredded beef), Tofu or a Veggie. Every day, there are entrée specials, which give you an authentic taste of some Cuban specialties.
The side orders do a great job of giving you a sampling of some foods that are common Cuban street fare. There are several flavors of empanadas: beef, ground soy, veggie, chorizo, goat cheese or guava and cheese. You might try the Yuca con mojo (cassava in garlic sauce, the Yuca frita (fried cassava) or the Yuca Rellena (stuffed cassava). If you’re a plantain lover, you can choose Maduros (sweet plantains) or Tostones (green plaintains). A nice side dish with a sandwich is the Mariquitas (plantain chips).
If you’ve got room for some dessert, the Pastelitos are delicious—choose between guava or guava and cream cheese. The bread pudding is rich and filling and, on the lighter side, there’s a yummy traditional flan. To round things out, there are some cold Cuban soft drinks and tropical shakes, which we haven’t tried but will likely be a refreshing treat when the Chicago weather warms up.
Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. For more information, please call (312) 651-9000 or stay in the know by visiting their blog at http://www.gotbuzzatkurman.com. You can also follow us on Twitter @dinewise and @kurmanstaff