Fogo de Chao
661 N. La Salle St., Chicago
(312) 932-9330; www.fogodechao.com
Hours:
Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Mon.-Fri.
Dinner: 5-10 p.m., Mon-Thurs.; 5-10:30 p.m., Fri.; 4:30-10 p.m., Sat.; 4-9 p.m., Sun.
Prices: lunch, $26.50 or $19.50 for salad bar only; dinner, $46.50 or $24.50 for salad bar only
By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Reprinted from DineWise column in StreetWise Magazine
We were talking about where we might want to travel for a warm winter getaway and we thought of Rio and other South American destinations. The conversation became more interesting and focused when we went to Fogo de Chao for a dinner hosted by the Chicago Brazilian Consulate. There were many Brazilian guests at this event us as well as many local Brazilian Americans. Although we can’t claim any Brazilian heritage, we were told we have Brazilian soul, which we take as a wonderful compliment.
Our dinner companions seemed very pleased to be at Fogo de Chao, a fact that speaks to the authenticity of this restaurant, which features the gaucho way of preparing meat in Porto Alegre, Brazil. Rather than preparing a special menu for this event, the restaurant introduced the group to its signature Fogo de Chao dining experience and then set us loose to satiate ourselves on their special kind of feast.
Phase one of the journey began with a stroll to the long salad bar. Starting at one end, we chose from the many ingredients that together form a hearty mixed green salad. Fresh spinach, spring mix, hearts of palm, asparagus, fresh and sun-dried tomatoes and many other items. As we turned the corner, the other side of the salad bar offered a wide range of fresh cheeses, condiments and prepared salads. Coupled with a range of dressings and vinegars, there was more than enough to create an excellent first course that would ensure our meal was well balanced and healthy.
Returning to our table for phase two, we began a much better than expected feast of grilled meats and side dishes. In total, Fogo de Chao offers more than a dozen different meat and poultry offerings, all mounted on robust swords. The servers (sword carriers, if you will) brought the meat to us; we could choose between a rarer portion or one that’s more well done—a nice personal touch. The server carved the portion off the sword and we captured it with special tongs. The parade of servers, each with a different cut of meat, seemed to go on forever. There is no question that we could have completely stuffed ourselves if we chose; fortunately, we knew when to say no and so we could still walk when we left the restaurant. In reality, it’s a good idea to take a break during the meal so that you can regain a little room for that special cut of meat that you crave when it finally comes around.
Here’s a rundown on some of the cuts of meat offered, and those we really liked. First, we must mention that our Brazilian friends were very pleased that Picanha (pronounced pea-CAN-ya) was one of the first to be served. This is a prime cut of top sirloin that is very popular in southern Brazil. It wasn’t one of our favorites, but it is good and very authentic. Another authentic dish is Alcatra, another top sirloin cut from southern Brazil.
The Filet Mignon was extremely tender and juicy. It was one of our favorites. Fogo de Chao serves it with or without a bacon wrap. Another very flavorful and tasty cut was the Fraldinha (pronounced fral-DIN-ya) a well-marbled bottom sirloin.
If you’re not the beef lovers we are, you’ll still have much to enjoy. We were very pleased with the Cordeiro (pronounced cor-DAY-roo) the grilled, mint-marinated lamb. Both lamb chops and leg of lamb were offered and both were delicious and tender. Personally, we liked the chops better but both were worth choosing. Poultry lovers have two varieties of chicken to choose from. Our favorites were the chicken breasts wrapped in bacon. The grilled chicken legs were moist and tender, even if somewhat bland, but that may a good thing if you’re not a fan of spicy food.
Among the pork selections were the Linguica (pronounced lin-GWEE-sa), grilled cured pork sausage with a barbecue tang, and the Lombo (pronounced LOM-bo), grilled pork loin. The sausage was zesty and fun; the loin was a little less seasoned than we’re used to and we probably could have taken a pass.
Rib lovers can choose from two styles. If you’re a bone-in steak fan, you’ll love the Costela (pronounced co-STELL-a), which are beef ribs grilled for several hours. They were juicy and flavored in a very straightforward manner, with only slight seasoning, but needed nothing more. The Costela de Porco (pronounced co-STELL-a gee PO-co), are Fogo de Chao’s baby back pork ribs. These were very tender and flavorful and the dry rub seasoning came through nicely.
The meats are accompanied by a host of family-style side dishes. The most addictive were the pão de queijo (warm cheese bread), small popover-like rolls. We could have eaten these until we burst. Other favorites were the crispy polenta and the caramelized bananas.
There really isn’t enough room for dessert, but we must admit Fogo de Chao has a great selection. The Brazilians in our group were thrilled to get the signature Papaya Cream, while we indulged in the Molten Chocolate Cake and the New York style cheese cake. All were very good; surprisingly so.
All in all, Fogo de Chao delivered on its promise. The service was well orchestrated and professional; the servers seemed quite happy with their roles and the food was very good. Fogo de Chao may be a haven for tourists and convention-goers in Chicago, but by no means should Chicagoans write it off. We really enjoyed the experience.
Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.blogspot.com.