Treat
1616 N. Kedzie, Chicago
(773) 772-1201, www.treatrestaurant.com

Hours: 5-9 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 5-10 p.m., Friday; 9 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat.; 9 a.m.-9 p.m., Sunday.
Entrée prices: $12-$19.

Editors Note: Since writing and publishing this story in the print version of StreetWise, we’ve learned that Treat will close on April 3. Owners are looking for a new location, so hurry over and have a fabulous meal and if you know of any great spots for this gem of a restaurant, give them a call!

Anyone who has lived in Chicago for awhile becomes familiar with the restaurant hot spots—those neighborhoods that are teeming with good, interesting places to eat. River North, Bucktown and Lincoln Square come to mind, but there are many others. It’s great to have these destinations but often the out-of-the-way places get overlooked.

Lately we’ve come across a restaurant whose presence is a beacon of light in its neighborhood. You wouldn’t expect to find such a good spot in the vicinity, but when you do, you are thrilled there are still restaurateurs willing to go out on a limb to pioneer a neighborhood that is sorely in need of a worthwhile gathering spot.

Where North Kedzie meets North Avenue you’ll find Treat, a small but creatively designed contemporary American BYOB restaurant with a strong South Asian influence. The warm colors, local art display and casually warm atmosphere are perfect for enjoying quite tasty food, a bottle of your favorite wine or beer and good conversation. We went there recently with a group to celebrate a friend’s birthday and we had a wonderful time. Treat is an oasis of dinner and weekend brunch.

The menu is intriguing from top to bottom—well thought out and creative yet accessible, with a more than ample selection of vegetarian dishes if you’re so inclined. Because the food is creative, take time to enjoy at least one first course—if not a first and second course—before the entrée is served.

First courses include meat and fish creations such as an interesting Beef Kabob with smoked spices, baby spinach in a yogurt dressing and Daisy’s Fried Calamari served with a carrot, parsley salad and harissa aioli. Other seafood starters include Scallops served with a yogurt crème, potatoes and leeks and Goan Crab Cakes with a panko bread crumb crust and creamed peas. Among the vegetarian starters are tasty Samosas, flaky pastry dough filled with potatoes, peas and served with a cilantro, mint and tamarind chutney, and the delicious Mushroom Paneer Purse: leeks and goat cheese in phyllo dough served with mixed greens and balsamic reduction.

A second course will provide a soup or salad. There is a daily soup and there are three salads, all are nicely conceived and shareable. The Mixed Green Salad includes tomatoes, cilantro and mint in pomegranate vinaigrette. You can enhance the salad with chicken salad or marinated flank steak for an up charge. The yummy beet salad is accompanied by herb crusted baked goat cheese, pickled onions, greens and walnuts in a citrus vinaigrette. Another nice choice is the Paneer and Spinach Salad, with cucumbers, paneer (soft white cheese), spiced corn, Israeli cous cous and shredded carrots in a cumin vinaigrette.

The entrées showcase Treat’s penchant for creative interpretations of South Asian specialties. Non-vegetarian entrées include Chicken Tikka Masala in a yogurt tomato sauce with Indian spices, basmati rice and curried seasonal vegetables. Meat lovers can select the Marinated Flank Steak served with mashed potatoes, roasted asparagus and korma (yogurt, nuts, spices) sauce or the Mint Creek Farm Lamb Shank with saffron cholay (curried chick peas), potatoes and rice. If you’re in a fish or seafood mood, you can select a perfectly prepared Seared Salmon with Israeli cous cous, fennel, tear drop tomatoes, edamame and almond cream or Scallops in a yogurt crème sauce, potatoes and leeks.

Vegetarian selections include Daai Tadka with Indian spices, clarified vegetable butter, basmati rice, and curried vegetables as well as a very delicious, albeit somewhat spicy Curried Gnocchi in a garam (ground spices) masala crème, with spinach gingered raisons, roasted fennel and mint. If pasta is in your future, you can go for the Garlic Paneer Linguini with roasted garlic, mushrooms, fennel, edamame, paneer, asparagus and herbs.

A nice feature about Treat as a neighborhood spot is that if you’re more inclined to eat light, there are several interesting sandwiches to choose from. Among the creations are a Lamb Burger with roasted red pepper, red onions, herb aioli, cilantro chutney on a toasted bun. There are two panini selections: the Jake’s Farm Ham and Cheese Panini comes with smoked ham, swiss cheese, mustard relish aioli, caramelized onions, all served on a light rye bread. The Turkey Panini is served with an apple tarragon cole slaw and swiss cheese on a light rye. You might also want to try the Beer Battered Cod Sandwich with capers, herb aioli, pickled onions and mesculin greens. Each sandwich comes with choice of side dish: French fries, basmati rice with chutney, apple tarragon cole slaw, wilted spinach or curried seasonal vegetables.

Treat doesn’t skimp on the desserts; we were delighted with our Spiced Apple Tart topped with Black Pepper ice cream—not your typical, run of the mill tart by any means.

Treat is BYOB but if you’re not drinking alcohol, you might want to try their homemade Ginger Limeade or choose from a wide range of teas.

Don’t forget the weekend brunch; visit the website, www.treatrestaurant.com, for menu information.

About DineWise
DineWise Chicago is written by Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie, the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. The DineWise column appears weekly in Streetwise magazine. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.com.