Category Archives: Cindy Kurman

The Berghoff and Berghoff Café continue one of Chicago’s longest restaurant legacies

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Berghoff Café Chicago
17 W. Adams
Chicago, IL 60603
(312) 427-7399

Hours: 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., Monday – Friday
Prices: $4.25 – $13.05

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in StreetWise

Unquestionably, the Berghoff is one of Chicago’s most illustrious restaurants, with a history going back to 1882. The restaurant actually started as a brewery and the namesake beer continues to be its signature offering. This large, multi-room German American restaurant got major publicity two years ago when word got out that it was closing. Actually, this wasn’t quite accurate.

Fourth-generation owner, Carlyn Berghoff, opened the Berghoff Café Chicago, a casual cafeteria-style cafe downstairs and opened 17/West in the original space. But soon after, she realized how important the Berghoff legacy is and so 17/West is now known simply as the Berghoff and the Café operates downstairs as planned. Both the Café and the Berghoff offer many family favorites plus more contemporary comfort fare.

The Berghoff Café is open Monday through Friday during the lunch period and is an excellent place to enjoy a wide range of German specialties, signature sandwiches, Panini, salads and pizza. Guests can order at the counter and seat themselves in the spacious dining rooms or simply stop by for carry out.

The Café’s specialties include the traditional Weiner Schnitzel and Sauerbraten. They are hearty and perfected over the year. For a taste of Chicago history, you must give them a try; you won’t be disappointed.

Italian dishes include the Chicken Parmesan sandwich with homemade potato chips, the Italian Combo sandwich with Genoa salami, provolone cheese, pepperoncini, capicola and Italian dressing, Cheese-filled Tortellini with pesto, a pasta of the day, an Italian Salad with Genoa salami, provolone cheese, capicola, and Italian vinaigrette, and either Pepperoni or 4-cheese Pizza.
At the carving station, you’ll find hearty, tasty sandwiches, including Corned Beef, Roast Beef, Roast Turkey, Turkey Meatloaf, and their traditional Bratwurst, all served with a Berghoff pickle; sauerkraut is optional.

The Café has not left out Chicago’s latest sandwich preference, the Panini. Choices include Black Forest Ham with brie and apricot wasabi, Corned Beef or Turkey Reuben, with Swiss cheese and sauerkraut on rye with Thousand Island dressing, and the Grilled Portobello & Asparagus on olive bread with goat cheese and roasted peppers.

Additional salad selections are spot on with today’s tastes: the Berghoff Café Cobb Salad, with turkey and choice of dressing; the Pear Salad with Mixed greens, pear slices, candied walnuts, sun-dried cherries tossed in a Champagne vinaigrette. Grilled chicken is optional; The Asian Salad with chicken breast, tossed with Napa cabbage, radicchio and wonton ribbons in a sweet peanut vinaigrette; Caesar Salad, with fresh Romaine lettuce, croutons and parmesan cheese. Grilled chicken is optional.

While you’re in the Café, don’t forget to stop upstairs to take a look around the Berghoff. Its historic ambiance is still a wonder to behold. We’ll talk about the main restaurant at a later date. In the meantime, grab a delicious casual lunch at the Café. Better yet, grab a colleague or shopping mate and enjoy it together.

A Mano: An Irresistile, Spacious Trattoria to Relax and Enjoy Friends

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A Mano
335 N. Dearborn
Chicago, IL 60610
(312) 629-3500
http://www.amanochicago.com/

Hours: 11:30-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday;
11:30-2 p.m. and 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Prices: Antipasti Bar, $12; Pizza, $12.50; Entrées: $12-$24

A Mano, from the owners of the popular Bin 36 restaurant upstairs, is a delicious addition to Chicago’s growing collection of contemporary Italian trattorias with a stylish and casually chic vibe. And with its Bin 36 lineage, A Mano offers multi-faceted wine and cocktail menus. With its openness and varied seating spaces, the restaurant is an irresistible place to relax and enjoy conversation with friends over a nice glass of wine or a cocktail and some intriguing country-style Italian food.

Located in River North, but very near the Loop, A Mano works very well for lunch, as an after-work wind-me-down or as an interesting place for a casual dinner. On warm weather days, there is a comfortable outdoor seating area overlooking Dearborn.

The lunch menu offers a stellar combination of authentic wood-fired oven pizza, soup, salads, Panini and pasta. A welcome and delicious feature which separates A Mano from other trattorias is a robust antipasti bar ($12 per person) that can be ordered alone or as an accompaniment to the menu items. One can easily construct a balanced, filling meal from the antipasti bar alone, but coupled with a Panini, pizza or pasta dish, the meal is a taste treat, indeed. The antipasti items change daily, but you’ll find some salads, tapenades, Italian cheeses, crostini, frittata, focaccia, grilled vegetables and homemade soup.

The dinner menu offers a nice selection of Italian specialties. If you’re interested in some shared appetizers for the table, A Mano offers a variety of smoked meats and Italian cheeses. Other starters include a nice Trio of Bruschetta and an Antipasti Plate. Salads are plentiful, including an Asparagus Salad, Prosciutto di Parma with Summer Melon, Caesar Salad, Heirloom Tomato Salad and an Argula Salad.

The wood-fired pizza is very fresh; the crust is thin and crispy. We enjoyed the house made A Mano Fennel Sausage as well as the Classic Margherita. Other intriguing choices include Fresh Mozzarella, Fresh Whole Manila Clams, Wild Mushroom, Prosciutto di Parma, and Soppressata Salami.

Panini selections run the gamut from hearty to light, and all are tasty. Choices include Prosciutto & Mozzarella with oven dried tomatoes and arugula, Grilled Vegetables with fresh goat cheese, Chicken Parmigiana with marinara sauce and arugula, and the house specialty, Nonna Caputo’s Meatballs with marinara sauce and fontina cheese.

Pasta dishes are also given solid attention. Among the more unique choices are Linguini with mussels, clams and shrimp in a white wine and saffron broth, Garganelli with Wild Boar Ragu, Raisins and Pine Nuts, Lobster & Scallop Ravioli and a Risotto of the Day. Entrée choices include Grilled Flat Iron Steak, Whole Roasted Fish of the Day and a half Rotisserie Chicken with olive oil mashed potatoes.

A Mano offers a generous dessert menu, including Cannoli, Chocolate and Espresso Mousse, Tiramisu and a Strawberry and Pizelle Neopoleon. We thought the homemade gelati and sorbets made for an excellent, refreshing finale.
Don’t forget to check out the nightly specials. There are good deals for everyone, even the kids on Monday.

de cero’s Taqueria Intriguing and Fun

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de cero: A modern day taqueria
814 W. Randolph St.
Chicago, IL 60607
312-455-8114
http://decerotaqueria.com/

Taco price range: $3.25-$4.85
Entrée price range: $11.75-$18.15

Hours: lunch is served Mon.-Fri. from 11:30 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Dinner: Mon.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 5-9 p.m.

There are probably hundreds of taquerias throughout Chicagoland, and one we find intriguing and fun is de cero, a popular spot in the heart of West Loop’s “restaurant row.” This casual, minimalist eatery serves up a creative, flavorful array of tacos and other Mexican-inspired dishes. It’s the kind of place that pleases foodies and non-foodies alike because, while the creations are interesting and the ingredients are of high quality, there is no pretense. de cero offers a wide variety of contemporary takes on traditional Mexican street food, with an urban sensibility that’s quite in tune with today’s tastes.

The signature dishes at de cero are the amazing tacos; there are 16 varieties on the menu plus additional daily specials. All are served in fresh, homemade soft tortillas. The tacos can be ordered ala carte (3-4 per person are quite filling) or by the combination plate which includes 8 tacos, any flavor, plus 3 house salsas for $32. Some of our favorite flavors include the chipotle chicken, the sautéed salmon, tres quesos (three cheeses), the battered shrimp, the vegetarian black bean and the braised duck with sweet corn salsa.

The menu covers a lot of ground beyond the wonderful tacos. Cold appetizers include delicious homemade quacamole, a nice jicama salad and a refreshing shrimp and scallop ceviche. Hot appetizer choices include the tasty duck nachos, sizzling cumin rubbed ribeye skewers and hearty mushroom quesadillas.

Diners who prefer an entrée course have many excellent choices. The marinated carne asada skirt steak is deliciously seasoned and served with pinot beans and basmati rice. Mole lovers will enjoy the boneless grilled chicken mole with poblano sauce, basmati rice and sautéed greens. Additional items include the large chipotle chicken burrito, grilled ahi tuna and fajitas (shrimp or steak).

If you still have room for dessert, you will delight in the unique guava cheesecake.

de cero is popular, attracting a wide-ranging clientele. There could be a brief wait, but it’s worth it. To avoid the largest crowds, try arriving early or later during the lunch or dinner periods.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at http://gotbuzzatkurman.com/.

Breakfast at Ina’s – a Chicago Institution

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Ina’s
1235 W Randolph StChicago, IL 60607-1517
Phone: (312) 226-8227
http://www.breakfastqueen.com/

Hours:
Monday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Tuesday-Friday, 7 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. (breakfast only on Sundays)
Breakfast entrée price range: $8-$11

Ina’s has become such a breakfast institution in the West Loop that we just had to tell newcomers and Chicagoans who have not yet visited this café: Go there for breakfast. You won’t be sorry, and you’ll be back. Ina’s is the culinary treasure house of inimitable chef/owner Ina Pinkney. She’s gregarious and a delight to know.

The website says it all: http://www.breakfastqueen.com/. But we think that “lunch queen” and “dinner queen” would work just as well. Any time of day, Ina’s has something wonderful to offer.

There are so many good breakfast things at Ina’s we hardly know where to start. So here are the basics: Prices are extremely reasonable. There is a free parking lot next door. The Intelligentsia coffee, served by the pot, is great. The room is quiet enough to hold a conversation, making it perfect for a business breakfast. The service is courteous, prompt and professional. In warm weather, there is a nice outdoor eating area. The quality of the food is excellent, portions are large but not overbearing and the baked goods are fresh and tasty. Ina is very committed to sustainability, so many of the ingredients are locally produced and organic.

What to order? We need go no further than to say Heavenly Hots, which are Ina’s signature pancakes, made with fresh eggs, sour cream and just a bit of flour. They are light and delicious, topped with fruit compote or ask for the real maple syrup. Ordered with a side of Boar’s Head bacon or one of three styles of sausage, and you’ll be sustained for hours. Similarly, you’ll enjoy the Vanilla Bean Waffle, Buttermilk Pancakes, Whole Wheat Oatmeal Pancakes and Baked French Toast. If you’re in a savory mood, there are many specialty Omelets, a delicious vegetarian Frittata, Huevos Rancheros and the special Pulled Pork Hash.

Ina’s is a “cell phone free zone,” so as you finish your meal and head out to face the day, you’ll be surprisingly refreshed—and glad that you stopped by.

Spacca Napoli still popular after 3 years in Ravenswood

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Spacca Napoli
1769 W. Sunnyside Ave.
Chicago, IL 60640
773-878-2420
http://www.spaccanapolipizzeria.com/

The biggest news in Chicago pizza over the past three years is that Chicago pizza lovers are clamoring for pizza that goes back to its Italian roots. Spacca Napoli, in the Ravenswood neighborhood, is one of several pizzerias that feature pizza in its original incarnation. Spacca Napoli has been packing them in for three years with truly authentic Italian pizza, made the same way it is made in the pizzerias of Naples, Italy. In fact, the restaurant is named after Spaccanapoli, the old plaza in Naples.

The owner is the friendly and completely dedicated “pizzaiuolo,” Jonathan Goldsmith, a Chicagoan who has traveled to Italy innumerable times and essentially considers Italy his second home. After many visits to Italy, he was encouraged by his Italian friends to open an authentic pizzeria in Chicago. Thus began his passionate journey to discover the essence and art of making true Italian pizza. His journey took him to Naples, the birthplace of pizza, where he studied and became certified as a “Pizzaiuolo”, or pizza maker.

A visit to Spacca Napoli is the closest thing to being on the streets of Naples. The menu is simple and uncluttered but offers a dining experience that is steeped in Italian culinary tradition. The meal begins with a choice of salads (insalatas) and appetizers (antipasti), each bursting forth with an explosion of flavor from the fresh, authentic ingredients. A daily soup special is also on the menu.

Goldsmith picks his ingredients judiciously. He doesn’t simply use mozzarella, he uses imported mozzarella di bufala and fior di latte (fresh whole milk mozzarella). Other ingredients include fresh tomatoes and basil, fresh eggplant and zucchini, imported Italian meats such as Prosciutto Di Parma and Italian sausage, all accompanied by flavorful, fresh olive oils. The appetizer selection varies daily, and you’ll often find Goldsmith passing out samples to the people waiting expectantly for a table. Appetizers are priced in the $7-$12 range and are large enough to share among 2-3 people.

The pizza selection focuses on twelve regular varieties plus two or three daily specials, certainly enough choices to please any pizza lover. There are plenty of vegetarian choices. Pizzas are priced in the $10-15 range.

The flavors and textures of the pizza are unique. Goldsmith has equipped the pizzeria with an impressive, imported custom-built wood burning brick oven. The oven burns so hot that the pizzas reach their treasured texture in only a few minutes. The bubbly crust—mixed in an Italian-made mixer and made from Italian flour—is very thin, crispy on the outside edges and tender in the center. People who enjoy the taste and aroma of freshly baked Naan bread in an Indian restaurant will note the similarity. All pizzas are drizzled with fresh imported olive oil and served uncut. Diners use a pizza cutter to create wedge slices or squares, whatever their preference.

In two visits, we enjoyed several varieties; all came out piping hot and delicious. The Funghi features fresh tomatoes, Fior Di Latte Mozzarella, fresh basil, mushrooms and olive oil. The tomato flavor emanates more from the fresh Pomodorini (Italian cherry tomatoes) than tomato sauce. We also loved the Quattro Formaggi, which is a cheese lover’s dream. It’s a Pizza Bianca (white pizza) with Fior Di Latte Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Emmenthal, and Fontina cheeses. Another favorite was the Bianco Nero, a delicately flavored daily special that features wild mushrooms drizzled with truffle oil. Amazing.

Other featured pizzas ingredients, in varying combinations, include fresh Italian sausage, fennel, arugula, fresh Parmesan and rapini.

Spacca Napoli serves a nice selection of desserts (dolce) which vary from day to day, and fresh gelato in a variety of flavors. We enjoyed the special banana gelato as well as the Tuscan chocolate (dark and rich). Italian beers and wines by the glass and bottle as well as excellent espresso and cappuccino are also available. Limoncello and other Italian spirits are great accompaniments to desserts.

Spacca Napoli is open for lunch and dinner. Lunch is served Wednesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is served Tuesday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 9 p.m. Reservations are accepted and recommended on weekends.

Carryout is allowed but discouraged; the high moisture content of the ingredients tends to saturate the crust. All major cards are accepted. Street parking is available.
For reservations and for more information, call Spacca Napoli at 773-878-2420 or visit their website at http://www.spaccanapolipizzeria.com/.