4004 N. Southport, Chicago

(773) 325-1710; www.deleece.com

Hours: 5:30-10 p.m., Mon.; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m., Tues., Wed., Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m., Fri.; 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m., Sat.; 9 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m., Sun.

Prices: most entrees are under than $20 and every Monday and Tuesday, Deleece features a three course special for $20!

It’s always a pleasure to write about a neighborhood spot that’s so good it’s worth a drive or L-ride, no matter where you live. So we’re happy to report that Deleece, a favorite among Lakeview residents since 1995, is better than ever and definitely worth the journey. A casual and beautifully artistic restaurant, owned by husband and wife team Lynne Wallack and John Handler, Deleece specializes in good contemporary American cuisine. With a foundation in American comforts, the restaurant brings a creative, global sensibility to its menu. The quality of the food has always set it apart from the bulk of even good neighborhood restaurants and these days, it has raised the bar even further. And topping off the good news, the menu continues to be very reasonably priced.

Four months ago, Deleece brought in a new chef, Brandon Canfield, who was recently at mk in Chicago but has also cooked in New York and San Francisco. His food is exceptional and we hope he has found a long term home at Deleece. We dined there very recently and we were very, very pleased, indeed. Canfield’s seasonal menu emphasizes fresh, local ingredients and he continues the tradition of presenting a wide assortment of flavors to please everyone.

Reading the menu, the dishes sound interesting, but not necessarily out of this world. In truth, the food is marvelous and brings the menu to life in a way we couldn’t have anticipated. We started our meal with an appetizer and salad. The Herbed Ricotta Gnocchi, with fava beans, maitake mushrooms, in white wine butter, was delicious. The gnocchi were perfectly done (not an easy feat) and the flavors were complex and fresh. The Arugula Salad was a culinary composition that was even better than the sum of its delicious parts. The honey-champagne dressing had a tantalizing sweet tartness, the honey glazed figs were a treat and, topped with a rich Stilton blue cheese, the salad was one of the best we’ve had in a long time.

We both ordered the Caramelized Salmon, a nicely-sized fillet, pan roasted with a somewhat sweet, teriyaki-like glaze, served with herbed black Chinese rice and a tasty sauté of fresh spinach and leeks in a pear ginger sauce. We were very, very happy. We asked for medium rare salmon and that’s what we got. We savored every bite, for this was one of the best salmon preparations we have ever had.

So, without dwelling on the many superlatives at Deleece, let’s run down other menu items, but keep in mind that the menu will change frequently and there are daily specials. Other current appetizer choices include Crab Risotto Cakes with truffle aioli; Chicken and Vegetable Potstickers with ginger, coriander, mustard seeds and honey; Rosemary Scented Polenta layered with sun-dried tomato and garlic pesto, wilted spinach and Ancho chili oil; Veggie spring rolls in butter lettuce salsa verde and nuoc cham.

Salad selections also include California Butter Lettuce with spiced walnuts, goat cheese, roasted peppers in a sherry vinaigrette; a Caesar salad with polenta croutons, and an entrée-sized Szechwan Salad with New York strip, napa cabbage, red cabbage, carrots, red peppers, peanuts, fried rice noodles in a basil-cilantro-mint dressing.

Additional entrées include Boneless Half Amish Chicken with a salad of fingerling potato, caramelized onion, bacon and celery, in a fig mostarda sauce; Grilled Pork Tenderloin stuffed with spinach and bacon, garlic green beans, savory apple bread pudding and champagne-caramel demi glace; Grilled New York Strip with sautéed spinach, truffle mashed potatoes and port wine demi glace. Fish lovers should also try the Grilled Halibut Steak with peas, baby carrots, chickpea fries and arugula-mint pesto. Note also that many of the sides which come with the entrées are available ala carte as well.

Deleece also presents a special $20 three-course prix fixe dinner menu on Mondays and Tuesdays and bottles of wine are half-priced on Wednesdays. There is a kids menu and the restaurant is family-friendly, without a nice outdoor seating area.

Also keep in mind that there is a second Deleece restaurant: Deleece Grill Pub, at 3313 N. Clark in Wrigleyville, which focuses more on high-quality burgers, mac-and-cheese other comfort fare.