by Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman

The biggest news in Chicago pizza over the past three years is that Chicago pizza lovers are clamoring for pizza that goes back to its Italian roots. Spacca Napoli, in the Ravenswood neighborhood, is one of several pizzerias that feature pizza in its original incarnation. Spacca Napoli has been packing them in for three years with truly authentic Italian pizza, made the same way it is made in the pizzerias of Naples, Italy. In fact, the restaurant is named after Spaccanapoli, the old plaza in Naples.

The owner is the friendly and completely dedicated “pizzaiuolo,” Jonathan Goldsmith, a Chicagoan who has traveled to Italy innumerable times and essentially considers Italy his second home. After many visits to Italy, he was encouraged by his Italian friends to open an authentic pizzeria in Chicago. Thus began his passionate journey to discover the essence and art of making true Italian pizza. His journey took him to Naples, the birthplace of pizza, where he studied and became certified as a “Pizzaiuolo”, or pizza maker.

A visit to Spacca Napoli is the closest thing to being on the streets of Naples. The menu is simple and uncluttered but offers a dining experience that is steeped in Italian culinary tradition. The meal begins with a choice of salads (insalatas) and appetizers (antipasti), each bursting forth with an explosion of flavor from the fresh, authentic ingredients. A daily soup special is also on the menu.

Goldsmith picks his ingredients judiciously. He doesn’t simply use mozzarella, he uses imported mozzarella di bufala and fior di latte (fresh whole milk mozzarella). Other ingredients include fresh tomatoes and basil, fresh eggplant and zucchini, imported Italian meats such as Prosciutto Di Parma and Italian sausage, all accompanied by flavorful, fresh olive oils. The appetizer selection varies daily, and you’ll often find Goldsmith passing out samples to the people waiting expectantly for a table. Appetizers are priced in the $7-$12 range and are large enough to share among 2-3 people.

The pizza selection focuses on twelve regular varieties plus two or three daily specials, certainly enough choices to please any pizza lover. There are plenty of vegetarian choices. Pizzas are priced in the $10-15 range.

The flavors and textures of the pizza are unique. Goldsmith has equipped the pizzeria with an impressive, imported custom-built wood burning brick oven. The oven burns so hot that the pizzas reach their treasured texture in only a few minutes. The bubbly crust—mixed in an Italian-made mixer and made from Italian flour—is very thin, crispy on the outside edges and tender in the center. People who enjoy the taste and aroma of freshly baked Naan bread in an Indian restaurant will note the similarity. All pizzas are drizzled with fresh imported olive oil and served uncut. Diners use a pizza cutter to create wedge slices or squares, whatever their preference.

In two visits, we enjoyed several varieties; all came out piping hot and delicious. The Funghi features fresh tomatoes, Fior Di Latte Mozzarella, fresh basil, mushrooms and olive oil. The tomato flavor emanates more from the fresh Pomodorini (Italian cherry tomatoes) than tomato sauce. We also loved the Quattro Formaggi, which is a cheese lover’s dream. It’s a Pizza Bianca (white pizza) with Fior Di Latte Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Emmenthal, and Fontina cheeses. Another favorite was the Bianco Nero, a delicately flavored daily special that features wild mushrooms drizzled with truffle oil. Amazing.

Other featured pizzas ingredients, in varying combinations, include fresh Italian sausage, fennel, arugula, fresh Parmesan and rapini.

Spacca Napoli serves a nice selection of desserts (dolce) which vary from day to day, and fresh gelato in a variety of flavors. We enjoyed the special banana gelato as well as the Tuscan chocolate (dark and rich). Italian beers and wines by the glass and bottle as well as excellent espresso and cappuccino are also available. Limoncello and other Italian spirits are great accompaniments to desserts.

Spacca Napoli is open for lunch and dinner. Lunch is served Wednesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is served Tuesday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 9 p.m. Reservations are accepted and recommended on weekends.

Carryout is allowed but discouraged; the high moisture content of the ingredients tends to saturate the crust. All major cards are accepted. Street parking is available.
For reservations and for more information, call Spacca Napoli at 773-878-2420 or visit their website at http://www.spaccanapolipizzeria.com/.