1024 N. Ashland Ave, Chicago; (773) 252-7200

6651 S. Pulaski, Chicago; (773) 582-5576

6835 S. Pulaksi, Chicago; (773) 735-7888

4465 S. Archer, Chicago; (773) 475-7044

1590 Busse Rd., Mt. Prospect, IL; (847) 364-9988

Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri.-Sun.

Ashland Avenue, just south of Division in the Ukrainian Village neighborhood, has become a haven for casual, family-style Mexican restaurants. Typically, they are modest, mom and pop venues that cater to a largely Hispanic neighborhood crowd. But the one that often has the line of eager diners out front is Mariscos El Veneno, an exceptional Mexican seafood restaurant that has been under the radar screen for many Chicagoans. There are three other locations in the city and one in Mt. Prospect.

This understated but festive and friendly casual eatery prepares a wide range of fish and seafood comfort dishes emanating from the Mexican west-central state of Nayarit, along the Pacific coast. These dishes are delicious and huge, huge, huge. The dining room is filled with the laughter and joy that comes from people loving their food, the staff and each others’ company.

Once you’re seated you’ll notice four bottles of hot chile sauce on the table, from mild to atomic—take your pick. Starting with the Shrimp Tostada, you’ll also notice that everything is freshly homemade and very tasty. When your server brings out the delicious taco chips and salsa, be forewarned—the salsa is HOT, HOT, VERY HOT. If you take more than a small dab, your mouth will burn for the next half hour. Trust us. So let us repeat: HOT, HOT, HOT! You’ve been forewarned.

There are many delicious starters from which to choose. The oysters on the shell are very fresh; you can order them with melted cheese if you like. You’ll also enjoy the fish or shrimp tacos. The shrimp and fish ceviches are colorful and excellent. We think that the shrimp and octopus cocktail is memorable (you can get just shrimp if you prefer). There are two sizes; the large size can actually work as a light entrée. Another wonderful cocktail specialty is the so-called Poison Cup with shrimp, octopus, oysters, clams and marlin ceviche.

Moving on to the entrées, there is also a wide selection. These huge dishes are perfect for sharing, family style. You need order 2-3 entrees for four people, depending on how hungry you are. Even then, you still may wind up taking some home. There are many favorites. One of our personal favorites is the Cucarachas, a plate full of steamed shrimp prepared al ajillo (in a rich garlic sauce). You can also order the shrimp rancheros style (butter sauce) or a la diabla (breaded in a chile sauce). These are simply perfect, as well as perfectly simple. If you would like a wider variety of seafood, go for the Chapuzón del Mar, which includes octopus, oysters and shrimp, If you’re a crab legs fan, you’ll be very pleased with the Crab Legs Nayarit Style, marinated and steamed, served with sliced cucumbers, tomatoes and onions. Other seafood specialties include Stuffed Lobster, served either Nayrarit style or in a mushroom cream sauce.

If fish is your preference you have several ways to go. Filet of fish (catch of the day) can be prepared garlic-style, butter style or breaded. If you’d like whole fried fish you can order Fried Mojarra (tilapia) or Fried Huachinango (red snapper), served three ways.

Also note that you can order platter sized dishes if you’re with a larger group. For an added touch to your meal, enjoy some garlic bread and herbed rice as sides. The specialty dessert is homemade Pina Colada pie.