Tag Archives: Best New Restaurants

Davanti Enoteca takes honest Italian wholesomeness to a new level with a big touch of Chicago creativity

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Davanti Enoteca
1359 W. Taylor St., Chicago
(312) 226-5550
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Fri.-Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun.
Entrée prices: $10-$14
By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in Streetwise magazine

This is a story about one of our personal best-kept dining secrets: Davanti Enoteca. We haven’t kept this secret very long—the restaurant has only been open for only four months. But we’ve dined here enough times to know that the place is always bustling and you usually have to wait for a table. Now, with our little secret revealed, the wait will be a bit longer. But don’t let that dissuade you: this place is worth the wait, because extraordinary flavors and textures are only a menu away. So enjoy a glass of wine while you people-watch and savor the anticipation.

This Italian restaurant and wine shop exudes soul and spirit. The atmosphere is very casual, homey and friendly, the kind of place you would absolutely want in your neighborhood. The room is woodsy and several walls are lined with cases of wine. Here you can buy a bottle of wine at retail, not restaurant, prices and after paying the modest $7 corkage fee (which is waived on Sundays), you can enjoy a quality selection from a predominantly Italian wine list.

Davanti Enoteca offers up unorthodox Italian comfort food that one could eat every day and not get tired of. Young rising star executive chef Jonathan Beatty (a chef to watch, we declare) pays homage to Italian tradition but raises the bar with modern ingredients and outstanding flavor and textural combinations. It’s sophisticated food, but it’s also honest, unpretentious and very reasonably priced. The dishes are perfect for sharing and  you can enjoy a tasting journey that is immensely satisfying. Once you’re full, you’ll wonder how such a delicious experience could have such a low price tag.

The extensive menu is intelligently divided into several sections. If you’d like to start by sharing some cheese and prepared meats, you’ll have a generous selection to choose from. Examples include the Burricotta, a creamy, burrata style ricotta cheese; the Grana Padano, an aged parmesan style cheese; Pantaleo, a Sardinian aged goat cheese. Mortadella di Bologna is a heat cured Italian salami; Capicolla Piccante is a cured spicy pork shoulder.

Along the same lines, you will enjoy the Vasi, mini-mason jars of delicious spreads served with Tuscan toast. The Olives Mediterranea are zesty; the Burrata Cheese with sea salt and olive oil is smooth and slightly tangy.
There are several appetizers handsomely served on wooden boards. You must, must, must order the Foccacia di Recco (Ligurian style baked foccacia filled with fresh soft cow cheese). One bite and you’ll know what heaven is like, trust us. Another delight is the Mascarpone Polenta, featuring the ragu of the day presented atop a cushion of polenta.

Antipasti selections continue the wow factor while being perfect for sharing. We love them all, so simply choose what you feel like; you won’t be disappointed. We think the Truffle Egg Toast with Fontina and asparagus is inspired, as are the Roasted Beets with walnut butter and crème candied walnuts.

There are five Salati (salad) selections. We absolutely adore the Roasted Squash with farro, whipped goat cheese, hazelnuts and watercress. Other tasty choices include Shaved Fresh Hearts of Palm with Lolla Rosa, lemon, chili oil and pink peppercorn and the Escarole and Gala Apple with celery and hazelnuts.

The menu offers an ample selection of crispy thin crusted pizzas. Among the interesting pizzas are Pizza Della Fattoria with farmed egg, pork belly, potato and scallions, and the Pizza con Salsiccia e Rapini with Italian mild sausage, broccoli rabe, garlic, chili oil, fresh mozzarella and tomato.

Pasta dishes are perfectly prepared: not overly sauced and perfectly al dente. We have become loyal to our to-die-for respective favorites: she loves the Cacio e Pepe, spaghetti with pecorino and black pepper, while he goes wild for the Riccio di Mare e Granchio, linguine with sea urchin and crab. Other tasty pasta choices include Paccheri con Salsiccia e Pomodori al forno, giant rigatoni with sausage, oven roasted tomato and parmigiano, and i Uovo in Raviolo ‘San Domenico’, giant raviolo with ricotta, egg and spinach.

The main course section offers a palette of well-conceived fish, meat and poultry dishes. One of our favorites is the Pollo ‘Sole Mio’, grilled half chicken with chili pepper paste, and we also love the Polpo con Rafano, seared octopus with warm fingerling potato salad, marcona almonds and fresh horseradish aioli. If you’re in a burger mood, you’ll enjoy the Davanti Burger, a custom blend of grilled ground beef served with bacon jam, roasted tomato, cheese curd, arugula, roasted garlic mayo, and served with seasoned shoestring fries.

Leaving enough room for dessert may be a challenge but, if you’ve paced yourself, you can enjoy such creative delights as the Cannoli Sundae with sweet ricotta, crushed cannoli, pistachios, candied oranges, chocolate sauce and whipped cream or the nicely textured Torta Bacio, chocolate‐hazelnut mousse with a crunchy bottom and cocoa nibs.

There is a daily selection of specials, a large number of wines by the glass and valet parking across the street. By the way, Davanti Enoteca is brought to you by Scott Harris and the folks at Francesca’s Restaurants. We thought we’d save this detail for last. They rock!
About the Authors
Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.com.

The new Bistro One West in St. Charles: "B.O.W. WOW!”

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Bistro One West
1 W. Illinois Street, St. Charles, IL
(630) 444-0600; www.bistro1west.com

Hours:
Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Tues.-Sat.
Dinner: 5-9 p.m., Tues.-Thurs.; 5-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat.
Closed on Sun. and Mon.
Price average:
Lunch: $8-12; Dinner: $16-20

By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Photos by Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in Streetwise magazine

No, this isn’t about dogs, hot dogs or Asian steamed buns, for that matter. But if the new Bistro One West (B.O.W.) in beautiful downtown St. Charles was a Westminster contestant, it would have a good shot of winning Best in Show.
Bistro One West has the pedigree to be taken seriously by food lovers. The owner is George Guggeis, who made a name for himself as the owner of the beloved Chicago restaurant, Mango, among others. The executive chef is the versatile and consummate Doug D’Avico, who put Trattoria No. 10 on Chicago’s Italian go-to list for many years.
These two friendly, down-to-earth guys have joined forces to create a Modern American bistro which will do much to make the tri-cities area (St. Charles, Geneva and Batavia) an even more attractive place to enjoy a weekend getaway from Chicago. The restaurant sits on the west bank of the Fox River, and its spacious outdoor deck will no doubt be the place to go once the warm weather kicks in this spring.
But for now, while we are still in the midst of winter, suffice it to say that the interior immediately speaks “warm and comfortable gathering place.” Combining rustic exposed brick walls with colorful artwork, warm artistic lighting, earth-toned tile floors, dark woods and comfortable seating, the space has been created with the confident eye of designer Vicki Tesmer.
In the front of the restaurant there is a bustling bar area that’s perfect for the upscale locals who, in Bistro One West, have found a perfect hangout with a sophisticated wine and cocktail program.

The L-shaped dining room features leather booths with a window view of the river as well as tables that are nicely spaced. The atmosphere is good for both social and business dining and there is a semi-private dining room for special events.

The top draw is the food, however, and D’Avico delivers on his promise to offer fresh, locally sourced seasonal food that is predominately American but also takes advantage of his prodigious Italian skills. The presentations are handsome and the ingredients are first-rate. Note that there is a separate lunch menu that only slightly overlaps the dinner menu.
At dinnertime, the appetizers get everything off to a roaring good start. We loved the Burrata, a fresh mozzarella-type cheese with a creamy center, served with delicious roasted tomatoes.
We were joyfully surprised by the Deviled Eggs filled with Maine Lobster—it’s a classic brought to a whole new level. Other good choices include the White Polenta with Crispy Pork Belly, served with red mole and heirloom radishes and the Jumbo Prawns with garlic, chili threads, shallots and grilled Ciabatta. A nice vegetarian choice is the Ancient Sweet Pepper with Dunbarton bleu cheese and applewood smoked bacon.

Salad lovers can choose between the tasty Shaved Roasted Beets with Nopales Salad, served with pickled Jalapeno and feta cheese, and the Bibb Leaf Salad with roasted tomatoes, herb dressing and fried parsnips.

The main courses are particularly interesting, well chosen and comforting. There is something for everyone and the choices are diverse enough to keep it interesting for those who are inclined to frequent the restaurant often.

Meat lovers will enjoy the
Berkshire Pork Cutlets with spicy snap peas and roasted corn pudding—a quite original dish, and the tender Grilled Waygu Steak, served with avocado butter and fingerling home fries. The Braised Veal Short Ribs, with caramelized onion relish and natural reductions, are as tender as can be. The robust pasta specialty is a perfectly prepared Pappardelle with Berkshire Pork, tomatoes and Pecorino Romano cheese.

On the lighter side, fish fans can go for the delightful Organic Irish Salmon with roasted cauliflower, applewood smoked bacon and mint or the Lake Superior Walleye with radicchio cole slaw, Shitake, green onion butter sauce. The poultry dish is Herb Roasted Amish Chicken with roasted carrots, lemon, cinnamon and pearl onions and, for vegetarians, there is a flavorful Roasted Poblano Pepper, spicy lentils, red shallots, spinach, feta and tomato.

Dessert lovers can find plenty to choose from, but at some point you’ll simply have to try the Butter & Bread Pudding with poached berry compote. D’Avico has taken a small loaf of bread, sliced it thinly and then applied the appropriate magic to turn it into a to-die-for mini-French toast with a wonderfully sweet and tangy topping. Very unique and extremely good; bravo!
Other desserts include Caramelized Roasted Banana with baked cinnamon wonton and Nutella cream; Baked Pears with Marsala, cinnamon, lemon, sun-dried cherries, and a rich Chocolate Pot e Crème with roasted pumpkin seed brittle.

The final good news is that Bistro One West has kept the pricing reasonable so that regular visits can be enjoyed. The parking is free and the staff is very gracious and enthusiastic. It’s great news for this part of the Chicago area, and worth the drive for a unique, even if brief, escape from the city. Check out the website for a peek at the lunch and cocktail menus.

Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.blogspot.com. Photos by Cindy Kurman