Davanti Enoteca
1359 W. Taylor St., Chicago
(312) 226-5550
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Mon.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Fri.-Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun.
Entrée prices: $10-$14
By Lee Barrie and Cindy Kurman
Story originally appeared in Streetwise magazine
This is a story about one of our personal best-kept dining secrets: Davanti Enoteca. We haven’t kept this secret very long—the restaurant has only been open for only four months. But we’ve dined here enough times to know that the place is always bustling and you usually have to wait for a table. Now, with our little secret revealed, the wait will be a bit longer. But don’t let that dissuade you: this place is worth the wait, because extraordinary flavors and textures are only a menu away. So enjoy a glass of wine while you people-watch and savor the anticipation.
This Italian restaurant and wine shop exudes soul and spirit. The atmosphere is very casual, homey and friendly, the kind of place you would absolutely want in your neighborhood. The room is woodsy and several walls are lined with cases of wine. Here you can buy a bottle of wine at retail, not restaurant, prices and after paying the modest $7 corkage fee (which is waived on Sundays), you can enjoy a quality selection from a predominantly Italian wine list.
Davanti Enoteca offers up unorthodox Italian comfort food that one could eat every day and not get tired of. Young rising star executive chef Jonathan Beatty (a chef to watch, we declare) pays homage to Italian tradition but raises the bar with modern ingredients and outstanding flavor and textural combinations. It’s sophisticated food, but it’s also honest, unpretentious and very reasonably priced. The dishes are perfect for sharing and you can enjoy a tasting journey that is immensely satisfying. Once you’re full, you’ll wonder how such a delicious experience could have such a low price tag.
The extensive menu is intelligently divided into several sections. If you’d like to start by sharing some cheese and prepared meats, you’ll have a generous selection to choose from. Examples include the Burricotta, a creamy, burrata style ricotta cheese; the Grana Padano, an aged parmesan style cheese; Pantaleo, a Sardinian aged goat cheese. Mortadella di Bologna is a heat cured Italian salami; Capicolla Piccante is a cured spicy pork shoulder.
Along the same lines, you will enjoy the Vasi, mini-mason jars of delicious spreads served with Tuscan toast. The Olives Mediterranea are zesty; the Burrata Cheese with sea salt and olive oil is smooth and slightly tangy.
There are several appetizers handsomely served on wooden boards. You must, must, must order the Foccacia di Recco (Ligurian style baked foccacia filled with fresh soft cow cheese). One bite and you’ll know what heaven is like, trust us. Another delight is the Mascarpone Polenta, featuring the ragu of the day presented atop a cushion of polenta.
Antipasti selections continue the wow factor while being perfect for sharing. We love them all, so simply choose what you feel like; you won’t be disappointed. We think the Truffle Egg Toast with Fontina and asparagus is inspired, as are the Roasted Beets with walnut butter and crème candied walnuts.
There are five Salati (salad) selections. We absolutely adore the Roasted Squash with farro, whipped goat cheese, hazelnuts and watercress. Other tasty choices include Shaved Fresh Hearts of Palm with Lolla Rosa, lemon, chili oil and pink peppercorn and the Escarole and Gala Apple with celery and hazelnuts.
The menu offers an ample selection of crispy thin crusted pizzas. Among the interesting pizzas are Pizza Della Fattoria with farmed egg, pork belly, potato and scallions, and the Pizza con Salsiccia e Rapini with Italian mild sausage, broccoli rabe, garlic, chili oil, fresh mozzarella and tomato.
Pasta dishes are perfectly prepared: not overly sauced and perfectly al dente. We have become loyal to our to-die-for respective favorites: she loves the Cacio e Pepe, spaghetti with pecorino and black pepper, while he goes wild for the Riccio di Mare e Granchio, linguine with sea urchin and crab. Other tasty pasta choices include Paccheri con Salsiccia e Pomodori al forno, giant rigatoni with sausage, oven roasted tomato and parmigiano, and i Uovo in Raviolo ‘San Domenico’, giant raviolo with ricotta, egg and spinach.
The main course section offers a palette of well-conceived fish, meat and poultry dishes. One of our favorites is the Pollo ‘Sole Mio’, grilled half chicken with chili pepper paste, and we also love the Polpo con Rafano, seared octopus with warm fingerling potato salad, marcona almonds and fresh horseradish aioli. If you’re in a burger mood, you’ll enjoy the Davanti Burger, a custom blend of grilled ground beef served with bacon jam, roasted tomato, cheese curd, arugula, roasted garlic mayo, and served with seasoned shoestring fries.
Leaving enough room for dessert may be a challenge but, if you’ve paced yourself, you can enjoy such creative delights as the Cannoli Sundae with sweet ricotta, crushed cannoli, pistachios, candied oranges, chocolate sauce and whipped cream or the nicely textured Torta Bacio, chocolate‐hazelnut mousse with a crunchy bottom and cocoa nibs.
There is a daily selection of specials, a large number of wines by the glass and valet parking across the street. By the way, Davanti Enoteca is brought to you by Scott Harris and the folks at Francesca’s Restaurants. We thought we’d save this detail for last. They rock!
About the Authors
Cindy Kurman Barrie and Lee Barrie are the principals of Kurman Communications, Inc., a Chicago-based marketing and public relations agency. Please visit their blog at www.gotbuzzatkurman.com and check out all DineWise articles at www.dinewisechicago.com.
the restaurant world, announced winners at a benefit for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation on Friday Night. The ceremony was hosted by WLS-TV personality Steve Dolinsky and master sommelier and host of Check Please Alpana Singh at the Fairmont Hotel.
